—INTERVIEW BY Leanne Clancey
Australian expat Dolli Taylor shares her recommendations for how best to enjoy the Mediterranean charms of her adopted island home.
Considerably more laidback than its hard-partying neighbour Ibiza, Mallorca is perhaps the Mediterranean’s original bohemian haven, having drawn and inspired generations of creatives. Names including DH Lawrence, Ana.s Nin, Mick Jagger and Joan Mir. have all been captivated by the island’s charms and today, the same spirit of creativity and freedom is attracting a new generation of travellers.
With its classic Spanish architecture, atmospheric villages and pristine turquoise waters, Mallorca is a dreamy destination for those looking to go a little slower, while still keeping one foot in the world of great food, wine and culture.
For Sydney-born gallerist, interior designer and restaurateur Dolli Taylor, the island idyll is now home, after marrying her Italian-born Mallorcan-based husband and relocating in 2018. Here, Dolli offers insights into some of the best places to immerse in local culture.
If I could describe Mallorca in three words it would be: bohemian, artistic, inspiring. The island has a strong artistic influence that dates back decades. Renowned Catalan painter, sculptor and ceramist Joan Mir. spent much of his adult life in Mallorca and produced many of his iconic works here. Small villages such as Dei. and Valldemossa have long drawn artists and writers and we now see creatives coming from all over the world to base themselves on the island. The rich nature and unique landscapes provide great inspiration to create.
Something I always do with visitors is eat sobrasada (cured pork), empanadas (savoury pastries) and ensaimadas (a classic Mallorcan sweet pastry scroll), and drink hierbas, a traditional herbal liqueur. I also take them to lunch at Ca’s Patr. March in Cala Dei., for incredible seafood on the cliffs while admiring the beautiful blue sea. One of my favorite things to order is a typical Menorcan dish of langosta (lobster) with eggs and fries.
One thing I crave most whenever I return after being away is the Mediterranean sea and my farm life. My husband and I are fortunate enough to live in a finca, a typical country house on 15,000sqm of farmland. Behind is a mountain range, and in front a sea view. We are far from our neighbours but only five minutes from supermarkets and villages. I love that I can have a peaceful life but not feel remote and isolated.
For breakfast I go to Surry Hills in Palma for an Australian-style cafe experience. The Spanish don’t really do coffee culture like Australians do; it’s usually just a quick cortado or espresso standing at the bar. I also like chic newcomer Terreno Club in Ponent, which attracts a creative, interesting customer base. They serve cocktails, natural wine and a delicious brunch cooked by Villi.
And for dinner, my restaurant, bar, art gallery and shop, Trobar, in the town of Cala Agulla. You’ll find international fusion share plates, a basement tequila bar and a rooftop bar for sundowners. Much of what you see, including tableware, is made in collaboration with artists and is for sale through our retail space. Atmospheric wine bar Little Jarana in Palma is a favourite for delicious small plates, great atmosphere and excellent wines. La Rosa Vermuter.a in Palma for an aperitivo. They specialise in vermouth and offer their twist on tapas, which chefs prepare in front of you at the little bar. Brut is an experimental restaurant with an incredible tasting menu set in the village of Llub.. Ca na Toneta is a cosy farm-to-table restaurant run by the Solivellas sisters at their aunt’s old house in the village of Caimari. They offer a tasting menu of typical local dishes using organic produce grown on site.
For nightlife I go to Abaco cocktail bar. Set in the heart of Palma’s Old Town (La Lonja district), you’d never expect to find such interesting interiors and energy behind the doors of a traditional building like this. It’s like stepping into another era. I also love Sa Fonda Dei. for great music and Brassclub for inventive cocktails and small bites. To experience local art, design and culture, I recommend the Mir. Foundation, located near Palma, where the artist lived from the mid-1950s until he died in 1983. Its collection includes over 7000 works of art by Mir. and his contemporaries. La Bibi Gallery is a warehouse-style gallery space inside a traditional building. The curators present an exciting mix of contemporary works by international and local artists and also host residencies. Museo Sa Bassa Blanca is a wonderful space to appreciate the intersection of art, nature and architecture. And of course, there’s my gallery space trobat, which showcases the work of lesser-known artisans from around the world.
For the best swimming, I go to Cala Agulla, a picturesque beach surrounded by mountains and very little else around. I love it because it is one of the longer beaches, the water clear and majestically blue and often quite flat. You can ride horses here and in the winter months take your dog. Cala Torta is another beach I love. The water can only be reached by walking along a bush track, which means it is particularly untouched and private.
My perfect Mallorca day off would involve spending the morning on the farm with my animals then heading to the beach for some paddleboarding. We are blessed to have so many beaches with incredible coves you can paddleboard to. For lunch I’d have the seafood paella at a local chiringuito (waterfront bar-cafe) such as Xiringuito Son Moll. Sunset drinks at The Sea Club, I love to have an espresso martini looking out to the sparkling blue water, or I’ll head to the rooftop at Trobar before dinner at a little Japanese-Peruvian fusion sushi bar called Ro Nikkei.
One thing that still surprises me about the local culture is how late the parties go. The locals here always celebrate tradition and have special events happening in the local villages all year round. On these nights everyone from the town and surrounding areas will come and stay out until 6 or 7 in the morning. I also love how inclusive everyone is of children, there’s no culture of adults-only parties here. No-one uses babysitters because children are welcomed and accepted everywhere. I love it, it means you don’t need to lead a separate life to socialise.